holley sniper efi iac problems

I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. I believe because the TPS is not registering. I'll have to check again tomorrow. Do please let us know what you find out! These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. I have been able to get it pretty If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. I am right back to where I started. It does this with the engine off. have the system learn the higher speeds? MSD pro billet and 6AL box There is no real mystery here. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. That is the first thing you must find. 63 bomb I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. Ok, so I'm stumped! I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. It may take a few tries. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. :-). Save Share. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Hi. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. to. It's all part of the adventure! Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. Hi Chris. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. idle counts from 0. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? Do you have a PCV on the engine? The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. Others might require 60 RPM. Seems to behave more better now. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. It wont fire up. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. Hello. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. I had this same exact issue. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. My Sniper is 99% great! Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. check out the. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. Then it started behaving oddly. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. TPS% = 1 ps. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. He has walked me through every question Iv. It runs perfectly fine other wise. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. $107.95. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. I have driven car about 200 miles. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. Cycled the ignition off. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. If you haven't installed a I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Jun 12, 2021. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. Laptop Access I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at I have not heard of this. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. back to trying to zero down an idle. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Pw. Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Hello Chris. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. No air should be able to pass. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. Thanks for any help. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. Overview. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. I.e. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. I will let you know what the results are. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. :-). Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. when things aren't working and this provides just that. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. :-). EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Comp. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Cheers Darren. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. We offer some tips to help with that. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. Thanks Again for your help. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. Please help. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. My problem is low idle. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. If you use your handheld to go here: Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. You could go either way.. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. Good I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. All times are GMT-6. I will turn it up some. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. Throttle body mounted ECU - no extra boxes to mount. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor.

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